Two New Luxury Hotels Make Tel Aviv a Fall Destination

Tel Aviv has never been so hot, and two just-opened hotels — The Setai and The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection — only add to the appeal. Why go? Well, good airlift helps. From New York’s JFK, Delta, El Al and United all fly nonstop. U.S. citizens do not need visas. Instead, immigration authorities print a special, per-visit stamp, so no evidence shows in passports.

As Amir Halevi, director general of the Israel Ministry of Tourism, said on Oct. 8 that Israel has evolved from marketing heritage and religion to sun and fun. And, Tel Aviv has sun and fun, especially along its mile-long Charles Clore Park seafront, plus art, architecture and culture comparable to that of Miami Beach. It also has history, as found at Jaffa, or Yafo, the city’s ancient port, where new hotels are located.

Setai Tel Aviv
The Nakash family, co-owner of Miami Beach’s Setai, opened the Jaffa’s 150-room Setai Tel Aviv this past January. The property is a conversion of medieval buildings that became the governor’s mansion, then a prison, then Jaffa Police Station. There is “old” everywhere, say the 13^th-century walls surrounding the latest Citterio-designed Technogym equipment in the 24/7 gym.

The rooftop Presidential Suite has glass walls, and a 360-degree vista over the Mediterranean and Old Jaffa. The 634 end suites also give stunning views. Designer ARA Design Studios deliberately courted the relax-in-style set: the outdoor pool is on the middle of three decks, to give more than a hint of a magnificent ocean liner, although there are other-level decks with centuries-old olive trees and relaxing areas where Israel’s brightest meet to discuss deals.

The pool at the Setai Tel Aviv.

On the bedroom front, this is a hotel, led by Manager Sotirios Ikonomou, that is packed with Jewish diaspora, especially from U.S. — there’s a noticeably high number of guests aged 40-plus, as well as young couples with kids — and on Friday nights, local fashionistas move in for staycations.

The Setai is integral with Old Jaffa. Down the six steps from its entrance directly into bustling Yefet street, one minute’s walk to the right brings guests to the first of many dozens of side-by-side open shopfronts, none more than six feet wide, selling shawarma and other local foods, or shoes, or souvenirs.

The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Tel Aviv
A ten-minute walk from there, up Yefet and beyond the bazaar of stores, takes visitors to imposing historical buildings. One, on the right, opened on Aug. 20, as the 120-room The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Tel Aviv.  As its imposing chapel indicates, it was formerly a convent. Hotel owner, Abe Rosen of RFR Holdings, whose portfolio also includes W South Beach, has turned the double-height chapel, now desanctified, into a breathtaking all-purpose room, for pop-up nightclubs and events (imagine doing yoga looking up at frescoed walls inset with four-foot photos of stars who have played significant religious figures, say Richard Burton and Frank Sinatra).

The Jaffa Courtyard. Photo: Amit Geron.

The 40 bedrooms in the original four-floor blocks have 19-foot ceilings. And, once again, there is a rooftop Presidential Suite, a new-build with a professional kitchen and 10-seat dining.

Cleverly, architect Rami Gil has added a new block, with 80 bedrooms, more standard when it comes to ceiling height, but designer John Pawson has given them all-black corridors and windows have white fretted-metal screens, as homage to Middle Eastern mashrabiya screens. Favorite rooms in the new block are sea-facing, looking over local housing, to the Mediterranean about 300 yards away.

Many would choose The Jaffa for its wellness, a serene outdoor pool, Technogym open from 6 a.m., and an L. Raphael spa (opening shortly). Others are drawn by such relics as a medieval wall, uncovered during construction, that extends from the lobby through an all-glass wall to an olive-tree courtyard. The lobby, by the way, is more like an art gallery, with two Damien Hirst paintings worth at least a million (U.S.) each; and two dark bronze, anthropomorphic sculptures by George Condo, a one-time punk musician tutored by Jean-Michel Basquiat.

And the food
And what about food? At both places, restaurants extend outside, shaded by trees, and umbrellas. Although The Setai, which has its own synagogue, is kosher, you barely notice the lack of dairy at main meals; and the outstanding breakfast buffet offers more yogurts, cheeses and salmon varieties than you can count.

The Jaffa, by contrast, is not kosher; all of its food is overseen by Major Food Group, out of New York. Don Camillo (the all-day Mediterranean restaurant), is complemented by a unique lunchtime Brooklyn-style diner called Golda’s Delicatessen. Yes, there are photos of Golda Meir, Former Prime Minister of Israel, all around.